Did you know that the expensive "crackle medium" you buy in cans is really just plain old white (elmer's) glue? Any white glue will work just like the really expensive stuff in cans.
We all love the "shabby chic" look of old crackled paint. When we're lucky, it happens naturally. But most times we have to help it along.
Crackling is great for covering up flaws. If you're considering sandling off old layers of paint, crackle instead - it's much faster & gives the item a lot of character.
How it's done:
There are 2 different methods of crackling that I use - one where the color in the cracks comes from underneath - the other where the color in the cracks in rubbed on. I like the second method best. It looks like dirt has naturally accumulated in old paint cracks.
Method 1: Color underneath
1) Primer your item if it wasn't previously painted
2) Paint it with the color you want to show in the cracks (use a color with a lot of contrast to your top color if you want your effect to be dramatic.)
3) Paint the glue on. You can dilute it a little to make it easier to work with. Use a brush, not a roller. Cheap brushes work better - they leave more lines & therefore more detail in the cracks. PUT IT ON THICK! Thin coats don't crack well
Experiment - the more glue you put on, the bigger the cracks.
I like to use a funky, random pattern so the cracks aren't all in nice neat brush lines.
And I like to vary the thickness of the glue from one part to the next so the cracks look natural.
TIP: Thin coats work best on vertical surfaces. This is true for both the glue and the topcoat. If you paint them on too thick, it will all run down & be a gloppy mess. You can turn your item on it's back, crackle the front, turn it on the side, crackle the side, etc. I did this on an armoire. It's time consuming, but works great.
4) After the glue is set up, but still tacky,(more than 1 hour, but not more than 2 or 3 - depends on your thickness) paint on the main color. Don't let the glue dry all the way - it won't crack if it's totally dry.
As the top color dries, the underneath color will be revealed in the cracks.
Method 2: Color rubbed in
1) Primer your item if it wasn't previously painted
2) Paint the glue on - see details above
3) After the glue is dry (see details above) paint on the main color. Cracks will appear as it dries, but they will be very subtle.
4) After the main color has dried overnight, take a rag and rub gel stain onto the item, working it into the cracks. Work in small, manageable patches. This is a really beautiful effect - gives gorgeous age, texture & patina.
Instant museum piece!
You can also do this over reproductions of Vintage Prints to "age" them:
1) Mount the print on a piece of plywood with a light coat of "Super 77" spray glue.
2) Coat the print with 4-5 very light coats of clear spray varnish first.
3) Paint on the glue
4) After it's dry, paint on a clear varnish. Cracks will appear.
5) After it's totally dry and hardened (overnight), rub stain into the cracks. Instant museum piece!
This is a great alternative to expensive custom framing - and is much more true to how many vintage prints - particularly Victorian Lithographs were actually displayed.
Check back - I will be posting photos demonstrating these techniques soon.
Need more info/instructions on waterslide decals? See my
website.
Lots of "trash to treasure" ideas and creative inspiration in my Web Site Pages!